nerdorama
AK member
Subscriber
- Sep 30, 2018
- #1
Hi all,
I couldn't find an AK writeup for this mod so thought I would make a post. I have done this now to two B&K AVR's. One is an AVR-305 owned by a friend, and now an AVR-507 that I found. Both units had failures in the digital sections so I made them into multi-channel power amps. My friend and I both have Oppo bluray players with full 7.1 line level outputs so with this amp it's quite easy to make a surround system.
There are a couple of things that need to be done. I strip out all of the preamp and digital boards including the rear panel connector board. Then I reamed out enough of the holes to install RCA jacks above each of the speaker binding post pairs. There is a blue and green pair of wires for the analog input to each amp section. Blue is signal and green is common. The caveat here is that the green is not connected to amplifier ground. That connection originally came through the preamp board. This connection must be reestablished on the amp boards. Without this ground connection I had about -35 volts on the speaker jacks. I ran a wire from where R30 is located. This resistor is not installed by the factory so has an empty hole which is amp ground. A wire from here to the input connector pin for the green wire makes it all work. R30 locations are under the B+ power fuses on each amp section.
There is an enable circuit connected to each channel. This was originally connected to one of the control boards. You could add a small time delay relay but I just "hot wired" the channels. These are the orange wires from the power supply board to each channel. I connected a 1k resistor from a ground pin on one of the now unused connectors and the other end to an unused point of the orange enable wirs on the board. Boths end of the enable circuit, i.e., the orange wire group at each end of the power supply board are connected together on the board so it doesn't matter to which end the resistor is soldered.
The schematics are on Hifiengine.
A
awillia6
Super Member
- Sep 30, 2018
- #2
Very nice and a great example of repurposing a receiver's perfectly good amp section from its obsolete prepro section. Display is disabled as well with only power indicator lamp used?
Last edited:
nerdorama
AK member
Subscriber
- Sep 30, 2018
- #3
No power indicator. The AVR305 had some input selected indicators which I powered up for the "analog" reading to use as the power indicator. The 507 doesn't have anything like that. I'll probably put an LED behind the window as a power indicator.
nerdorama
AK member
Subscriber
- Dec 22, 2018
- #4
All buttoned up and running 5 channels. Set the bias and offset on each channel. Channels 6 & 7 aren't stable so I pulled the fuses for them. Will look at them later. I only need 5 channels right now. It works great. I'm feeding it from the analog outputs on my Oppo 103 and using the built in volume control of the Oppo. I've never had surround sound going in my home before so this is fun. The speakers are all Goldenear: Triton 1's in front, SuperSat 50 center and SuperSat 3's for back channels.
Merry Christmas and happy New Year to all,
John
hjames
We are all just walking each other home.
Staff member
Super Mod
Subscriber
- Dec 22, 2018
- #5
Nice repurposing!
I have a Harman Kardon AVR 7300 (7x125w/ch) that has a VLSI chip that runs the preamp and similar functions. I shipped it Harman to have it replaced once, but when it died from the same problem a second time, in less than a year, I jus put it aside. I really hate to trash a monster multichannel amp like that, but I had no chops to refurb it like you did.
Funny enough, I replaced the HK with an Integra DTC 9.8 Pre/Processor,
and now that feeds a pair of B&K power amps - one stereo amp (B&K ST202 +) for the front mains,
and a 5 ch amp (B&K AV-5000 II) for the center, sides, and rears.
- I run the B-460 sub with an old HK Citation 22 in Mono mode (est 600w)
Love the sound of the B&K amps!
Last edited:
A
awillia6
Super Member
- Dec 22, 2018
- #6
Congrats on the mods and integrating it all. Happy Holidays (and great listening/viewing) yourself!
P.S. How and from what source did you determine to set the channels' output transistor biases? Plus, what was unstable in Ch. 6 and 7? Volume, distortion, power handling, ...?
nerdorama
AK member
Subscriber
- Dec 22, 2018
- #7
awillia6 said:
P.S. How and from what source did you determine to set the channels' output transistor biases? Plus, what was unstable in Ch. 6 and 7? Volume, distortion, power handling, ...?
Neither the bias or the DC offset was stable in the two channels. Funny thing is that those two channels had broken binding posts which I replaced. They may have suffered some damage if the amp was on when it happened. I just assumed it was handling damage and not likely to have included any electrical failure. I got the bias numbers from a B&K document for some similar amps which have a similar power amp schematic. I just inferred that these should be about the same. It's a very low class AB bias so probably not that critical. I set the channels for 200mA per the attached document.
I found these documents at HiFi Engine: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/bk-components.shtml
Attachments
nerdorama
AK member
Subscriber
- Dec 22, 2018
- #8
hjames said:
Nice repurposing!
I have a Harman Kardon AVR 7300 (7x125w/ch) that has a VLSI chip that runs the preamp and similar functions. I shipped it Harman to have it replaced once, but when it died from the same problem a second time, in less than a year, I jus put it aside. I really hate to trash a monster multichannel amp like that, but I had no chops to refurb it like you did.
The service manual with schematics for the HK is on HiFiEngine as well. The power amp sections are all analog so it should be very possible to convert it to a 7 channel amp similar to my effort on the B&K. Maybe you have a friend that could tackle it. It's handy to have a 5 or 7 channel amp around for emergencies.
John
A
awillia6
Super Member
- Dec 22, 2018
- #9
That's funny. I've been thinking of going the other way with my main receiver. Since I already have an outboard 7-channel amp for when I went to 6-ohm speakers, I only use the receiver's pre-pro functionality, never its amps. So why not decommission them (non-destructively, of course) to save a whole bunch of juice and extend the life of the amp section's components? Fourteen power trannies put out a good bit of heat even just idling (as you well know from your B&K gear and it's even larger number of them).
Last edited:
nerdorama
AK member
Subscriber
- Dec 22, 2018
- #10
The heat isn't too bad with the B&K. The bias is fairly low so it doesn't get too hot. I have a class A Pass F5, now that puts out some heat. Each channel is making more heat than the total of the B&K. But, I agree with you that you may as well save the life in the power amp section devices and the power consumption.
John
A
awillia6
Super Member
- Dec 23, 2018
- #11
nerdorama said:
Neither the bias or the DC offset was stable in the two channels. Funny thing is that those two channels had broken binding posts which I replaced. They may have suffered some damage if the amp was on when it happened. I just assumed it was handling damage and not likely to have included any electrical failure. I got the bias numbers from a B&K document for some similar amps which have a similar power amp schematic. I just inferred that these should be about the same. It's a very low class AB bias so probably not that critical. I set the channels for 200mA per the attached document.
I found these documents at HiFi Engine: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/bk-components.shtml
Belated thanks for taking the time to post up the links and especially for the bias info. If only B&K had been clear and definitive in their technical documentation, this stuff would be a lot easier to deal with.
S
Sonido24
New Member
- Jun 4, 2019
- #12
Hi nerdorama, Thank your for sharing this info! I'm trying to do the same with a B&K avr 307
do you mind if i ask you more information about this conversion?
lico
AK Subscriber
Subscriber
- Jun 4, 2019
- #13
B&K AVRs seem to have lot of a failures in the digital sections. My guess is many were "bricked" along the way trying out firmware updates leaving them inoperable in a power on "waiting" state as opposed to a real parts failure.
Too bad somebody can't figure a recovery for that. Seems a shame to convert them over to just a power amp, they are really nice receivers if working.
nerdorama
AK member
Subscriber
- Jun 4, 2019
- #14
Sonido24 said:
Hi nerdorama, Thank your for sharing this info! I'm trying to do the same with a B&K avr 307
do you mind if i ask you more information about this conversion?
What would you like to know? I've been away from these for a while so I'll try to dredge up what I can offer.
John
S
Sonido24
New Member
- Jun 5, 2019
- #15
nerdorama said:
What would you like to know? I've been away from these for a while so I'll try to dredge up what I can offer.
John
Hi, thank you in advance! I'm new to B&K audio equipment 2019 and i own a B&K avr 507 my speakers transformed! The sound is unreal compared to other amps and receivers that i used to own.
I also own a B&K avr 307 that has problems with the Preamp section and i would like to do a conversion to a power amp. The picture with the brown wire connected R30 i get it,
i would like to ask you about the wire connected on the other side close to the top right fuse and a diode where is that cable connected to the fuse or the diode?
Also how do i check the bias or DC offset? I see that you posted that you set the channels to 200mA did you do that with the remaining channels as well? Thank you very much!
Best regards,
nerdorama
AK member
Subscriber
- Jun 5, 2019
- #16
The other wire is connected the same. They terminate under the fuses to the unused R30 solder pad and the other end I soldered to the pin of the input connector. This has the result of tying the common side of the input circuit to signal ground of the amp section.
Bias is measured by removing one of the amp fuses and connecting an ammeter across the fuse holder to make a direct measurement of the idle current through the channel being adjusted. DC offset is measured across the dummy load resistor attached to the speaker binding posts as mentioned in the instructions which I attached in post no 7 of this thread.
Hope I've answered your questions clearly. Keep asking if you need more clarification.
John
S
Sonido24
New Member
- Jun 6, 2019
- #17
nerdorama said:
The other wire is connected the same. They terminate under the fuses to the unused R30 solder pad and the other end I soldered to the pin of the input connector. This has the result of tying the common side of the input circuit to signal ground of the amp section.
Bias is measured by removing one of the amp fuses and connecting an ammeter across the fuse holder to make a direct measurement of the idle current through the channel being adjusted. DC offset is measured across the dummy load resistor attached to the speaker binding posts as mentioned in the instructions which I attached in post no 7 of this thread.
Hope I've answered your questions clearly. Keep asking if you need more clarification.
John
Thank you sir! I will start this project sometime next week hopefully and i will upload pictures just to confirm that i'm not doing anything wrong, Thanks again.
Best,
Alex
S
Sonido24
New Member
- Jul 6, 2019
- #18
nerdorama said:
The other wire is connected the same. They terminate under the fuses to the unused R30 solder pad and the other end I soldered to the pin of the input connector. This has the result of tying the common side of the input circuit to signal ground of the amp section.
Bias is measured by removing one of the amp fuses and connecting an ammeter across the fuse holder to make a direct measurement of the idle current through the channel being adjusted. DC offset is measured across the dummy load resistor attached to the speaker binding posts as mentioned in the instructions which I attached in post no 7 of this thread.
Hope I've answered your questions clearly. Keep asking if you need more clarification.
John
Hello Nerdorama, I completed the project today but I would like you to take a look at what I did before i try it for the first time. I added a wire from R30 to the second pin For each channel, I also added 1k resistor on the power supply on both ends and finally
Connected the new rca jacks for each Channel, blue wire has the signal and green cable is the common.
Please take a look at the images, thank you!
Best regards, Alex
Attachments
SoCal Sam
Lunatic Member
- Jul 6, 2019
- #19
This works for me on so many levels. Well done.
nerdorama
AK member
Subscriber
- Jul 6, 2019
- #20
It looks right but hard to say with certainty from the pictures. First, power up with nothing connected to outputs and measure DC. Use the offset pot to zero. If you got the jumper under the fuses correct it will work.
Glad to see someone else giving it a go..
John
You must log in or register to reply here.