B&K AVR mods to make a multi channel power amp (2024)

nerdorama

AK member

Subscriber

  • Sep 30, 2018
  • #1

Hi all,
I couldn't find an AK writeup for this mod so thought I would make a post. I have done this now to two B&K AVR's. One is an AVR-305 owned by a friend, and now an AVR-507 that I found. Both units had failures in the digital sections so I made them into multi-channel power amps. My friend and I both have Oppo bluray players with full 7.1 line level outputs so with this amp it's quite easy to make a surround system.

There are a couple of things that need to be done. I strip out all of the preamp and digital boards including the rear panel connector board. Then I reamed out enough of the holes to install RCA jacks above each of the speaker binding post pairs. There is a blue and green pair of wires for the analog input to each amp section. Blue is signal and green is common. The caveat here is that the green is not connected to amplifier ground. That connection originally came through the preamp board. This connection must be reestablished on the amp boards. Without this ground connection I had about -35 volts on the speaker jacks. I ran a wire from where R30 is located. This resistor is not installed by the factory so has an empty hole which is amp ground. A wire from here to the input connector pin for the green wire makes it all work. R30 locations are under the B+ power fuses on each amp section.

There is an enable circuit connected to each channel. This was originally connected to one of the control boards. You could add a small time delay relay but I just "hot wired" the channels. These are the orange wires from the power supply board to each channel. I connected a 1k resistor from a ground pin on one of the now unused connectors and the other end to an unused point of the orange enable wirs on the board. Boths end of the enable circuit, i.e., the orange wire group at each end of the power supply board are connected together on the board so it doesn't matter to which end the resistor is soldered.

The schematics are on Hifiengine.

A

awillia6

Super Member
  • Sep 30, 2018
  • #2

Very nice and a great example of repurposing a receiver's perfectly good amp section from its obsolete prepro section. Display is disabled as well with only power indicator lamp used?

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nerdorama

AK member

Subscriber

  • Sep 30, 2018
  • #3

No power indicator. The AVR305 had some input selected indicators which I powered up for the "analog" reading to use as the power indicator. The 507 doesn't have anything like that. I'll probably put an LED behind the window as a power indicator.

nerdorama

AK member

Subscriber

  • Dec 22, 2018
  • #4

All buttoned up and running 5 channels. Set the bias and offset on each channel. Channels 6 & 7 aren't stable so I pulled the fuses for them. Will look at them later. I only need 5 channels right now. It works great. I'm feeding it from the analog outputs on my Oppo 103 and using the built in volume control of the Oppo. I've never had surround sound going in my home before so this is fun. The speakers are all Goldenear: Triton 1's in front, SuperSat 50 center and SuperSat 3's for back channels.
Merry Christmas and happy New Year to all,
John

hjames

We are all just walking each other home.

Staff member

Super Mod

Subscriber

  • Dec 22, 2018
  • #5

Nice repurposing!
I have a Harman Kardon AVR 7300 (7x125w/ch) that has a VLSI chip that runs the preamp and similar functions. I shipped it Harman to have it replaced once, but when it died from the same problem a second time, in less than a year, I jus put it aside. I really hate to trash a monster multichannel amp like that, but I had no chops to refurb it like you did.

Funny enough, I replaced the HK with an Integra DTC 9.8 Pre/Processor,
and now that feeds a pair of B&K power amps - one stereo amp (B&K ST202 +) for the front mains,
and a 5 ch amp (B&K AV-5000 II) for the center, sides, and rears.
- I run the B-460 sub with an old HK Citation 22 in Mono mode (est 600w)
Love the sound of the B&K amps!

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nerdorama

AK member

Subscriber

  • Dec 22, 2018
  • #7

awillia6 said:

P.S. How and from what source did you determine to set the channels' output transistor biases? Plus, what was unstable in Ch. 6 and 7? Volume, distortion, power handling, ...?

Neither the bias or the DC offset was stable in the two channels. Funny thing is that those two channels had broken binding posts which I replaced. They may have suffered some damage if the amp was on when it happened. I just assumed it was handling damage and not likely to have included any electrical failure. I got the bias numbers from a B&K document for some similar amps which have a similar power amp schematic. I just inferred that these should be about the same. It's a very low class AB bias so probably not that critical. I set the channels for 200mA per the attached document.

I found these documents at HiFi Engine: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/bk-components.shtml

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nerdorama

AK member

Subscriber

  • Dec 22, 2018
  • #8

hjames said:

Nice repurposing!
I have a Harman Kardon AVR 7300 (7x125w/ch) that has a VLSI chip that runs the preamp and similar functions. I shipped it Harman to have it replaced once, but when it died from the same problem a second time, in less than a year, I jus put it aside. I really hate to trash a monster multichannel amp like that, but I had no chops to refurb it like you did.

The service manual with schematics for the HK is on HiFiEngine as well. The power amp sections are all analog so it should be very possible to convert it to a 7 channel amp similar to my effort on the B&K. Maybe you have a friend that could tackle it. It's handy to have a 5 or 7 channel amp around for emergencies.
John

A

awillia6

Super Member
  • Dec 22, 2018
  • #9

That's funny. I've been thinking of going the other way with my main receiver. Since I already have an outboard 7-channel amp for when I went to 6-ohm speakers, I only use the receiver's pre-pro functionality, never its amps. So why not decommission them (non-destructively, of course) to save a whole bunch of juice and extend the life of the amp section's components? Fourteen power trannies put out a good bit of heat even just idling (as you well know from your B&K gear and it's even larger number of them).

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nerdorama

AK member

Subscriber

  • Dec 22, 2018
  • #10

The heat isn't too bad with the B&K. The bias is fairly low so it doesn't get too hot. I have a class A Pass F5, now that puts out some heat. Each channel is making more heat than the total of the B&K. But, I agree with you that you may as well save the life in the power amp section devices and the power consumption.
John

A

awillia6

Super Member
  • Dec 23, 2018
  • #11

nerdorama said:

Neither the bias or the DC offset was stable in the two channels. Funny thing is that those two channels had broken binding posts which I replaced. They may have suffered some damage if the amp was on when it happened. I just assumed it was handling damage and not likely to have included any electrical failure. I got the bias numbers from a B&K document for some similar amps which have a similar power amp schematic. I just inferred that these should be about the same. It's a very low class AB bias so probably not that critical. I set the channels for 200mA per the attached document.

I found these documents at HiFi Engine: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/bk-components.shtml

Belated thanks for taking the time to post up the links and especially for the bias info. If only B&K had been clear and definitive in their technical documentation, this stuff would be a lot easier to deal with.

S

Sonido24

New Member
  • Jun 4, 2019
  • #12

Hi nerdorama, Thank your for sharing this info! I'm trying to do the same with a B&K avr 307
do you mind if i ask you more information about this conversion?

lico

AK Subscriber

Subscriber

  • Jun 4, 2019
  • #13

B&K AVRs seem to have lot of a failures in the digital sections. My guess is many were "bricked" along the way trying out firmware updates leaving them inoperable in a power on "waiting" state as opposed to a real parts failure.

Too bad somebody can't figure a recovery for that. Seems a shame to convert them over to just a power amp, they are really nice receivers if working.

nerdorama

AK member

Subscriber

  • Jun 4, 2019
  • #14

Sonido24 said:

Hi nerdorama, Thank your for sharing this info! I'm trying to do the same with a B&K avr 307
do you mind if i ask you more information about this conversion?

What would you like to know? I've been away from these for a while so I'll try to dredge up what I can offer.
John

S

Sonido24

New Member
  • Jun 5, 2019
  • #15

nerdorama said:

What would you like to know? I've been away from these for a while so I'll try to dredge up what I can offer.
John

Hi, thank you in advance! I'm new to B&K audio equipment 2019 and i own a B&K avr 507 my speakers transformed! The sound is unreal compared to other amps and receivers that i used to own.
I also own a B&K avr 307 that has problems with the Preamp section and i would like to do a conversion to a power amp. The picture with the brown wire connected R30 i get it,
i would like to ask you about the wire connected on the other side close to the top right fuse and a diode where is that cable connected to the fuse or the diode?
Also how do i check the bias or DC offset? I see that you posted that you set the channels to 200mA did you do that with the remaining channels as well? Thank you very much!

Best regards,

nerdorama

AK member

Subscriber

  • Jun 5, 2019
  • #16

The other wire is connected the same. They terminate under the fuses to the unused R30 solder pad and the other end I soldered to the pin of the input connector. This has the result of tying the common side of the input circuit to signal ground of the amp section.

Bias is measured by removing one of the amp fuses and connecting an ammeter across the fuse holder to make a direct measurement of the idle current through the channel being adjusted. DC offset is measured across the dummy load resistor attached to the speaker binding posts as mentioned in the instructions which I attached in post no 7 of this thread.

Hope I've answered your questions clearly. Keep asking if you need more clarification.
John

S

Sonido24

New Member
  • Jun 6, 2019
  • #17

nerdorama said:

The other wire is connected the same. They terminate under the fuses to the unused R30 solder pad and the other end I soldered to the pin of the input connector. This has the result of tying the common side of the input circuit to signal ground of the amp section.

Bias is measured by removing one of the amp fuses and connecting an ammeter across the fuse holder to make a direct measurement of the idle current through the channel being adjusted. DC offset is measured across the dummy load resistor attached to the speaker binding posts as mentioned in the instructions which I attached in post no 7 of this thread.

Hope I've answered your questions clearly. Keep asking if you need more clarification.
John

Thank you sir! I will start this project sometime next week hopefully and i will upload pictures just to confirm that i'm not doing anything wrong, Thanks again.

Best,
Alex

S

Sonido24

New Member
  • Jul 6, 2019
  • #18

nerdorama said:

The other wire is connected the same. They terminate under the fuses to the unused R30 solder pad and the other end I soldered to the pin of the input connector. This has the result of tying the common side of the input circuit to signal ground of the amp section.

Bias is measured by removing one of the amp fuses and connecting an ammeter across the fuse holder to make a direct measurement of the idle current through the channel being adjusted. DC offset is measured across the dummy load resistor attached to the speaker binding posts as mentioned in the instructions which I attached in post no 7 of this thread.

Hope I've answered your questions clearly. Keep asking if you need more clarification.
John

Hello Nerdorama, I completed the project today but I would like you to take a look at what I did before i try it for the first time. I added a wire from R30 to the second pin For each channel, I also added 1k resistor on the power supply on both ends and finally
Connected the new rca jacks for each Channel, blue wire has the signal and green cable is the common.
Please take a look at the images, thank you!

Best regards, Alex

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SoCal Sam

Lunatic Member
  • Jul 6, 2019
  • #19

This works for me on so many levels. Well done.

nerdorama

AK member

Subscriber

  • Jul 6, 2019
  • #20

It looks right but hard to say with certainty from the pictures. First, power up with nothing connected to outputs and measure DC. Use the offset pot to zero. If you got the jumper under the fuses correct it will work.
Glad to see someone else giving it a go..
John

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B&K AVR mods to make a multi channel power amp (2024)

FAQs

Is my receiver powerful enough? ›

As long as your speakers have a sensitivity rating of at least 84 dB or so, a receiver with 80 to 100 watts per channel into 8 ohms should be powerful enough.

What does an amplifier do in home theater? ›

An amplifier is the device that turns the low voltage signals from your source equipment into a signal with enough gain to be used to power a pair of speakers.

Do AVRs have amps? ›

Of course, not all AVRs are made the same. Lower-end models will typically include rather weak amplifiers and a weak power supply feeding those amps, while higher-end models will include better components, larger power supplies and beefier amps.

How do I know if my amplifier is powerful enough for my speakers? ›

If you can prevent the power amp from clipping (by using a limiter), use a power amp that supplies 2 to 4 times the speakers continuous power rating per channel. This allows 3 to 6 dB of headroom for peaks in the audio signal. Speakers are built to handle those short-term peaks.

Will a better receiver mean better sound? ›

A few more ways a new receiver can give you better sound

A new receiver with more power output makes your speakers sound their fullest. Automatic speaker calibration can also quickly tune your surround sound to the acoustics of your room, making the setup process a lot simpler.

Which class amplifier is best for home theater? ›

Most home theater and stereo amplifiers and many car amplifiers are Class AB. Until recent years, using an AB amp was the only practical choice for attaining high-fidelity, full-range amplification, but now Class D amps are being built that are just as accurate. (Class A is still the winner for accuracy, though.)

What makes an amplifier sound good? ›

A good amplifier ensures a cleaner signal path. This means it amplifies the audio signal without adding any unwanted noise or distortion, resulting in a clearer and more detailed sound.

Does an amplifier sound better than a receiver? ›

If you are looking for an audio and video solution, you should buy an AV receiver. If, however, all you are interested in is getting the perfect sound quality for your vinyl, CDs and other audio sources then an integrated amplifier is the right option.

How much power does an AVR draw? ›

Most AV receivers still employ linear Class AB amplification such as Denon, Marantz, Sony and Yamaha, while some models of Pioneer and Onkyo utilize Class D amplification. 437.5 watts - 109.4 watts = 328 watts greater power consumption for the Class AB amplifier vs the Class D amplifier for the same power output!

How do you connect AVR to power amp? ›

For adding an amp to a receiver, find the AV receiver's output and plug the one end of the RCA cable for audio into it. Then, insert the other end into the power amplifier's input. Match each RCA cable to a pre-out on the receiver and a corresponding speaker input on the power amp.

What is a good wattage for a receiver? ›

Try and pick a receiver that can deliver a constant amount of power within the recommended rating, so if a speaker requires between 25-150 watts, a receiver that can put out 45-100 would suit you very well. Keep in mind you don't need 150 watts to make that speaker sound fantastic.

What are the qualities of a good receiver? ›

A great receiver is such a complicated combination of traits—agility, body control, strength, quickness, soft hands, physical stamina, concentration, focus, toughness, pride, eye-hand coordination, vision, intelligence, the ability to conceptualize concepts.

How do I get the best sound out of my receiver? ›

How to Achieve the Best Sound with your AV Receiver
  1. Select your AV Receiver. ...
  2. Connect all the Elements. ...
  3. Calibrate the Receiver. ...
  4. Explore Surround Sound Modes and DSPs. ...
  5. Sit Back and Relax.
Nov 29, 2021

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